Chock-full of tastelessness
24 06 2007Oh Baldwin. How we love thee. Such a village street - “reminds me of Ann Arbor,” one soon-to-be Vanity Fare contributor commented - smack in the middle of the city. I fear, however, that its eating establishments are spurning our affection. Although the many cafes and restaurants that line Baldwin’s leafy sidewalks have charming decors (and patios!), across the street (ha) the food is mediocre. Baldwin is the gifted kid in math class who’s failing because she can’t sit still. So much potential but without the proper tools - Ritalin for the student, chefs who can actually cook for Baldwin’s cafes - not worth the time. (Clearly, I should never be a teacher).
Vegetarian Haven, sadly, is one of these students. I suppose we should have known. Here’s a dining tip for any hungry Torontonians: avoid pan-Asian cuisine at all costs. If there’s one thing I despise - and I like to think I have a pretty receptive palate - it’s culinary indecision. Now Asia, as we all know, is a big place. Why chefs believe they can conquer Japan, China, Vietnam, Thailand, India (don’t even get me started), and Morocco (apparently part of Asia) simultaneously is beyond my comprehension. It demands, as you have witnessed, the overuse of italics. Yet, defying logic, pan-Asian eateries abound in our fair city. Pick a country! If you’re going to do one thing, as everyone’s mother has told her, do it well. Colonization is so last century (and the century before that and the century before… also, memo to the Bush administration); enough with the haphazard pilfering.
Unsurprisingly, Vegetarian Haven’s food was muddled. The tempeh in my salad was cut too thin and under-seasoned; a noodle soup dish was bland; a lentil soup special was flavourful but tepid. We wanted to like the place, we really did. We enjoyed the romantic décor and the friendly staff; other people’s food looked good. Maybe we just ordered the wrong thing (is mock meat what we’re supposed to be having? Is mock pastrami their specialty?).
It pains us to see Baldwin in such a state. I didn’t want it to come to this but tough love seems the only option. So here’s our ultimatum: either choke down the Ritalin, Baldwin, or we’re shipping you off to Gitmo.
- Andrea














why am I never invited to these adventures? am I not good enough? to think I contribute and make you look at puppies.
wilson! you are coming out with us on Thursday, yes? Dinner at Terroni’s then the kozyndan opening at Magic Pony?
P.S. you didn’t miss out on much, Wilson. Although, we did go to Kensington again…
I hear Susur is one of the best restaurants in the city and it’s pan-Asian!
i know what you mean about baldwin - it’s so CUTE you just expect the food to be divine - i’ve also been disapointed in the past. however, i’ve also had some good dining experiences - there’s a good brunch at cafe la gaffe (it has a nice terrace out back), and the indian place can be really charming on a warm summer night, with all the twinkly lights, and helped by a glass or two or three of red wine.
heya teri — funny, because we had the hardest time deciding on which restaurant to try that night. the indian place DID look really nice, with the patio out front.. and that was one of our first choices. we’ll probably try it the next time we’re in the area!
I went to Bodega on Baldwin, and had a very tasty meal. Escargot for a starter and a terrific lamb main. I approve of Baldwin.
[...] I thought so 24 02 2008 Didn’t we say this about Baldwin St. way back when? [...]